13 October 2015

Staring Down The Demons: 3x3000 2015

"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes."

—Marcel Proust, The Captive



"The struggle itself towards the heights is enough to fill a man’s heart. One must imagine Sisyphus happy."

—Albert Camus, The Myth of Sisyphus




One of the consequences of updating a blog after more than a year's absence is that there are inevitably a mass of diffuse draft scribblings scattered around which never ended up being finished, and these fragments end up being incorporated into a greater whole via a network of tangents and asides. Thus, this is a long post. A very long post. Part of the reason for this is that I genuinely think these fragments are relevant, but mainly because I want to put the what, how and why of this race into a wider context as a way of helping me understand why this race turned out how it did. So it's primarily for my own benefit, and if someone else finds it interesting or useful then that's a bonus, and if someone finds it tedious and overwrought then that's fine too. Like I said, it is really long!

My first dealings with the 3x3000 course came back in August 2014 when a friend and I recced most of the route, only choosing to omit the final Skiddaw loop (a nice race day surprise we imagined), and dropping directly from Sty Head to Esk Hause rather than tackling the familiar climb to Scafell Pike along the Corridor Route. I say familiar, what I mean is we knew where it was, we'd just dropped off the correct line almost immediately on our previous outing in August 2013 and had to spend ages trying to get back on it before we ended up in Piers Gill or on the slopes of Lingmell a la Ricky Lightfoot during last year's Scafell Pike Trail Marathon. This would not be the last mention of Monsieur Lightfoot's name that day, who, as 3x3000 course designer, got all the blame for any section we perceived to be horrible, usually in mumbled sentences like "f**king Lightfoot and his stupid Wythburn valley. More like Ricky Trenchfoot after this lark", or "f**king Clough Head, who comes down this way? F**king Ricky Lightfoot, that's who?"

Fast forward a few weeks and, due to a combination of diabolical weather and ridiculous mental weakness, I'd be running almost exactly the same route again rather than the full 80km distance. Only this time, instead of coming off Clough Head and enjoying some nice easy running along the old railway line, I'd be trudging along in a sulk having already decided somewhere around Great Dodd that I'd had enough. I'd fallen in a Borrowdale river that wasn't supposed to be there, sunk chest deep in one of Wythburn's finest bogs, took numerous spectacular tumbles, and was generally not enjoying it anymore. Wizened trail hounds like Timothy Olsen or Scott Jurek would say "stay present", focus on the moment. Well I did that and the present was cold and grey and boring. What was not cold and grey and boring was pizza. So I withdrew at Threlkeld quarry, got a lift back to Keswick with a marshal, got changed, and went to the pizzeria only to find it was fully booked. DNFed for a pizza I didn't even get. What an idiot.

Over the next few weeks I half-heartedly tried to convince myself that it was the right thing to do, that if I wasn't enjoying it then I had no reason to carry on. That's nonsense, of course. I didn't enjoy it (and ultimately didn't finish) because I made bad decisions, which can be fixed, and because I thought pizza was more important than finishing, which it clearly isn't. But the race was over, and I now had Transvulcania 2015 to think about and some serious training to do. Only I DNFed that race around 50km too, albeit in what I like to call a "no choice DNF" fashion, AKA getting timed out because you can't run fast enough because you still have a stress fracture and haven't run a step in 2 months and trained for the race entirely on a bike (pretty successfully I think, but having the endurance and the climbing ability doesn't help when you can barely run on the flat and can't run downhill at all).

Post-Transvulcania I didn't run again for another couple of weeks, and when I did it was in tentative 25 minute sessions, constantly monitoring my fibula for any twinges or loud snapping noises. My priority was simply to get back to running in a healthy state, but those two DNFs were bugging me, especially the 3x3000. That was a stupid DNF, a lazy one. Regret is probably too strong a word, but the desire to revisit that race and fix everything I messed up the first time was definitely nagging at me, and I'd been wearing my 2014 race shirt as a reminder of what should have been. Only my running fitness was now shocking, unable to stay out of zone 3 during a 30 minute run, and the decline in proprioception and lower limb strength meant my running skill had degenerated to newborn animal levels, hooves everywhere.

Being an injured runner can be a thoroughly negative experience, and if dubious statistics are to be believed then as a runner you're destined to live your life being haunted by the spectre of physical breakdown. Running is constantly framed in terms of suffering, breakdown, exhaustion. If someone finds out you're a runner it's not unusual for them to assume that you're permanently enduring some debilitating knee condition. The idea of running as bodily destruction is so pervasive that you can have runners doing 20 miles a week convinced that they're overtraining. Discussion groups are littered with posts about rehab and physiotherapy. Running "wisdom" tells us that if you wear the wrong type of shoes you'll be in a wheelchair by 40. Drink plenty of water or you'll dehydrate and get cramp. Don't drink too much water or you'll die.

It's not uncommon for injured runners to avoid coming into contact with anything to do with running, removing themselves from social media and actual real-life social circles in order to avoid being confronted by that which they cannot do, that which they no longer consider themselves. 

The overstatement of the physical destruction caused by running (or running the "wrong" way some might argue) is poisonous. It leaches right into how runners see themselves and how others see runners, as fragile whiners always treading the fine line between a grimace and a sulk. Injury doesn't have to be a negative phenomenon though. Injury, like a DNF, can be a learning experience that leads to being a better athlete in the long term. Just to be clear, injury does happen, and being injured is probably not something to aim for, but living in constant fear of injury is likely worse than actually being injured. 

For me, dealing with not being able to run meant tackling a number of key questions:
  1. What went wrong?
  2. Why did it happen?
  3. Can it be fixed? If so, how?
  4. What training can be done in the meantime?
  5. What changes do I need make to prevent it happening again?
Now, I think those are all useful things to know. If you can answer those questions in a productive manner then I think you'll be well on the way to recovery before the swelling even subsides. What's unlikely to help are vague guesses, self-pity and avoiding the subject. 

In my case what happened was I suffered a proximal stress fracture of the left fibula, most likely caused by a high volume of downhill running on hard surfaces. Fixing it basically involved not doing anything that stressed the lower leg and the tissues that attach to it. So basically anything that involved moving around on foot was out of the window. Eight weeks out from Transvulcania I couldn't even walk 500m without some pretty nasty pain, meaning that even though I was driving to work the walk from the car park to my office was enough to undo any healing that might have taken place prior to that. So I made the decision to get a bike, partly so I could get to work and partly in order to continue training in some form. I didn't know at that point whether it would work, but my hunch was it would probably work a lot better than not training at all for 8 weeks.

I've already mentioned that the end result was I DNFed the race because I couldn't move quickly enough on the downhills and flats, but what's important here is that I discovered I felt very strong on the climbs. I hadn't run any hills at all for over 2 months, and yet climbing was easier and quicker than it had ever been. What I had been doing was long training rides which deliberately took in as many hills as possible, meaning by the time it came to race day I'd put in 70 hours on the bike, with just under 1,500km and 11,500m of climbing in the preceding 8 weeks. Whilst that doesn't sound like a massive amount of ascent it should be looked at in the context of me living in Leicester, not Cumbria, that climbing on a bike is harder than on foot, and the not inconsequential fact that I hadn't ridden at all for years before injury forced my hand. So I think it's a pretty decent amount of volume in all 3 areas, and it appeared to have had a positive impact on my race performance.

With less than 8 weeks to go, and with a longest run of only an hour under my belt, I entered the 2015 edition of the 3x3000. This might seem foolhardy to some, but I was confident I could get the necessary training in, and confident I would finish this time. Much is said about the mental side of ultra running, and confidence and trust in your training set the foundations on which to build. I think a lot of runners lose faith in their own ability as a race draws near, misled by a single "poor" workout rather than looking at the overall performance trend. In my case, although my running at that time was limited, the overall performance trend - my fitness to compete in the mountains - was definitely improving, and I had the utmost confidence in my training. As I mentioned, cycling had a a very positive effect on my performance, so it became another valuable tool in my training toolbox.

Soon enough race day arrives and I'm up at 3.45am to give myself time to properly wake up, get some food in, and most importantly drink some coffee to avoid having to visit Mr Bush mid-race. Part of my strategy for the day was to stay calm and not let my head get the better of me, so I wanted to make sure I arrived at the start feeling relaxed rather than nervous. Thus I made sure I took my time and tried to keep everything as close to my normal morning routine as possible. I'd slept well for the past few days and managed to get in a nap after registering the day before, and I'd only run once this week. In other words, I'm well rested and ready to go.

This year I'd travelled up to Keswick by myself, aware that having someone else around would be another incentive to pull the plug if things got rough. My thoughts on this were pretty clear though: things were not going to get rough, because I've prepared well, but if for some reason they did get rough then grinding my way up the back of Skiddaw in a huff was still preferable to lying restless in my B&B thinking about how I should be grinding my way up the back of Skiddaw in a huff.

An hour later I headed out of the door for the 3 minute walk to the start, chatting to a fellow competitor on the way. This time last year we were all huddled under the roof of the Theatre by the Lake as rain continued to hurl down as it had done for the preceding 24 hours. This year the start had been moved to the iconic Moot Hall, start and finish of the Bob Graham Round, and smack bang in the middle of the market square. Although only a minor change, there's something quite special about starting from somewhere that's such a big part of fell running history, as well as giving the race that classic European mountain race feel. 

Shortly before 5am we are ushered behind the start gantry, given a brief countdown, and we're off. A couple of kilometres of road through the town and alongside Derwent Water, past last year's start, and we we're on undulating and fast forest singletrack heading towards Watendlath. Most of this part of the course was either flowing with water, or completely submerged last year, so much so that I don't even remember some of the later sections this time around. Eventually we get to Watendlath, the tarn maintaining a safe distance from the path this year, and begin the climb through the ferns towards Rosthwaite. The field is quite small this year, with around 80 runners starting, so things spread out pretty quickly. I'm happy with that as it allows me to do my own thing without getting pulled into pointless battles only a short way into the race. My only real target is a sub-16 hour finish as that would give me a qualifying time should I decide on entering the Lakeland 100 for 2017.

I descend into Rosthwaite feeling in control and enjoying the pace. From here it's flat running to Seathwaite where the first aid station is. Not long out of Seatoller and I see a load of headlamps heading back towards me from the farmyard. It was then I remembered that I'd made exactly the same error last year, expecting to see a marker indicating where to turn off and carrying on when none appeared. So we backtracked a couple of hundred metres to where the path continued, and carried on towards Seathwaite. By now my headlamp was a little dim - I'd decided against putting brand new batteries in as I knew this first section would only be dark for about 90 minutes - but luckily there was plenty of light from the runners we picked up at the farm.

Eventually we get into Seathwaite where I refill my 2 bottles with Tailwind and have a cup of Coke. This was to be my fuelling strategy for the entire day. It was a calculated risk as I'd never run anywhere near 50 miles on liquid calories alone, but I was willing to give it a shot in the knowledge that I had some solid food in my pack should the need arise. In the end the only food I consumed all day was a few Pringles in order to tick off the "eat" entry in my half-way drop bag checklist, and never once did I feel a drop in energy. That's certainly an encouraging sign, as I struggle with appetite during the later stages of a race which then leads to fatigue and the start of negative thinking.

This next section of the race was something I was really looking forward to. After heading out of Seathwaite on a wide and flat rocky track I get to Stockley Bridge where the climb up to Sty Head starts. I'm immediately struck by how much easier it feels compared to last year. I'm using poles again so I'm able to make good use of the upper body strength I'd worked hard on all year, but my legs feel strong too. After the initial stiff climb I settle into a rhythm of jogging the downs and flats and hiking the ups (hard), and this continues all the way to the stretcher box at Sty Head where there's a marshal recording everyone's arrival times. I get here in 2h 40m, a full 25 minutes faster than last year and feeling great.

From Sty Head the marshal directs me toward a series of markers across some boggy ground to pick up the Corridor Route. As I mentioned earlier, the first time I ran this section, back in August 2013, we dropped off the route almost immediately and then struggled to regain it until Piers Gill. By picking up the path later on this time we'd avoided the ambiguous first section, and so from there on the way forward was clear: perfect undulating rocky singletrack snaking its way towards Lingmell Col.

Along this section I'm leapfrogging backwards and forwards with another runner as I pull ahead on the climbs and she catches up again on the descents. I'm really enjoying this part of the course and the sight of Lingmell Col up ahead has me wishing this section was longer. From the col it's a rocky climb across boulders to the summit cairn where a marshal congratulates me on my efforts so far, and the bushiness of my beard. I send a quick text to Caren to let her know I've arrived and then I'm back on the move.

From the summit of Scafell Pike the route descends past Broad Crag, skirting the summit, and down towards Esk Hause, my absolute favourite place in the Lakes. It's not an easy descent as it's basically a boulder field until past Broad Crag, but after that I'm running again and still moving well. I get to Esk Hause, dib in, and then it's onto the great stepped downhill to Angle Tarn. The rock is nice and dry this year so I'm able to relax a bit more than last year when I was constantly on the edge of stacking it and cracking my skull on the hundreds of pointy rocks waiting to ambush me.

The route from Angle Tarn to Stake Pass is undulating and weaves in, out and through peat hags and bog. Compared to last year it's pretty dry, not dry enough to prevent a few knee deep plunges, but dry enough that it's pretty runnable. Once at Stake Pass I can see a fair few runners up ahead beginning the climb up to High Raise. I pause at the start of the climb to refill my bottles with water, knowing that this is the last opportunity before the Wythburn checkpoint. It's a deceptively tough climb, steep, grassy and in places muddy, but I'm relishing the prospect of making up some time here. I can see a few runners I'd talked to earlier up ahead, but they're way ahead at this point. I'm feeling strong though so I start really powering uphill making full use of my poles and enjoying the chance to put in some harder effort. I eventually catch up with them around 3/4 of the way up and then back off in order to have a chat and recover a little. It's a good move I think; my confidence levels are already high and performing well in front of my fellow competitors only raises my confidence further. 

I hated the next section of the course when I raced it last year, and I hated it when we recced it. There's pretty much no path once you enter the valley, it's soaking wet, boggy, marshy, slippery, and it seems to take forever. This year I was very clear about my approach to this section: it's not that far, and it doesn't take that long - it just feels like it takes a long time because it's hard to get into any sort of rhythm. I also made a better footwear choice this year, choosing to run in Scott Kinabalu Supertracs, which performed superbly all day on all surfaces. I was on my own through here, but way off in the distance I spotted another runner, off route but moving in the right direction, and said to myself "I'm having you, mate!" I made good progress, with no falls and no bog submersions, and eventually I caught up with him just before Steel End. He was pretty dejected, having clearly not been prepared for extent of the preceding swamp and mentions that he might withdraw when he gets to Wythburn. I tell him that the worst bit is over, and there's lots to look forward to, but he's still pretty negative and already walking. I look at my watch and see that I'm a few minutes behind where I was at this point last year, so I move on determined to get to the checkpoint before 12 (I later realise I'm actually way ahead of last year, because last year the Scafell Pike section was avoided because it was impossible to get to).

I get to Wythburn about 20 minutes faster than last year, dib in, and grab my drop bag while one of the crew makes me a hot drink ("Coffee and coke, together? Are you sure?"). Again, this is another area where I learned from my previous DNF, where I thought a drop bag in a 50 miler wasn't necessary. Maybe it isn't necessary, but it might have changed the outcome. This time I had a checklist to make sure I did everything I needed to do before moving on: socks, base layer, drink, eat fill bottles, mp3 player, food for next section, GET OUT. I hesitate on the sock front, concerned that I'll end up wasting 10 minutes flailing around on the floor trying to get a fresh pair of Injinjis on damp feet while my legs suddenly decide to cramp. So I skip the socks, but a dry base layer is a welcome change. I also take the opportunity to ditch the soft shell I'd been wearing for the first half and switch to a windproof gilet and arm warmers. I drink about half a bottle of Coke, half a bottle of ginger beer, and the coffee/coke mix (I hate getting a hot drink at an aid station and then having to wait around while it cools down enough to drink, and the coke cools it down whilst actually tasting pretty good). I look at my list again: "eat, fill bottles" it says, so I grab a token handful of Pringles and then fill my bottles with Tailwind again. I still have food in my pack, so no need to grab any more. I pick up my poles, put on my headphones and get moving: I've got some climbing to do.

It was during the climb up to the summit of Helvellyn that my favourite moment of the race (maybe any race) occurred. I'm hiking hard uphill, jogging the flatter sections, and I'm gaining on people who left the previous checkpoint well before me and pulling away from people who left at the same time. I'm listening to the Blood Bros "First Blood", an impeccable mixtape of music from 80s and 90s action movies, when on comes "Montage" from "Team America" and suddenly I'm struggling to contain my laughter at the ridiculousness of running up a mountain whilst listening to a parody training song that's actually an awesome training song.

Three weeks earlier I'd decided that as part of my race preparation, my "big" training week, I was going to try and climb 10,000 feet in a week, in Leicester, up and down the same hill. The 10,000 feet figure came from a thread on the FRA forum about how much climbing you need to do per week to successfully complete the Bob Graham Round. Doing it up and down the same hill was entirely my idea. I'd first done something similar as part of my build up to my first Transvulcania outing. It's March 2014, and I'm roughly 2 months out from my first "big" race; my longest race to date, with the most climbing, and the most other runners. 73km, 4500m, 2400 runners, or thereabouts. If you live in one of the flattest parts of the UK then that middle figure might be something of a concern. Accumulating height gain can be somewhat difficult when the highest point in the county is a mere 278m above sea level and the "biggest" climbs gain less than 100m over their 1km distance. Certainly you can't do those big relentless climbs that take hours of hunched-over drudgery, or those seemingly never-ending descents that hammer your quads into submission and test the limits of your concentration. Again, that might be seen as a bit of a problem when you've signed up for a race involving big relentless climbs that take hours of hunched-over drudgery, and seemingly never-ending descents that hammer your quads into submission and test the limits of your concentration.

Conventional running wisdom holds that in order to get better and running up and down hills you need to practice running up and down hills, and by doing so you will increase the strength and skills required for success in this particular discipline. This makes perfect sense, as in all sports there is a requirement for deliberate practice in order to elicit improvement or prevent decline. With this in mind, what better way to spend the last few long runs of a training cycle than doing hill repeats for several hours?

The first such outing came about more through laziness and route fatigue than any particular training goal. I had 30km to run that weekend, but couldn't decide on a route - I'd been training in the same place for months and despite the extensive network of paths I was getting bored of it. I therefore decided to remove the question of route choice almost entirely and strip that weekend's long run down to the absolute bare essentials. I like running up hills, and I like running down them, so the plan would be to simply run to the top of the first hill as usual, run down the other side and up the adjacent, smaller hill, turn around and run back up the first hill. Repeat until 28.5km was in the bag, then run the final 1.5km back to the car.

My approach this time around would be simpler still. I would do nothing else for a week except run up and down Old John (a climb of approximately 115 feet over 300m) until I reached 10,000 feet. 90 minutes of hill repeats on Tuesday, 2 hours on Wednesday, an hour on Thursday, and then 5 hours on Saturday, starting at 5am. I'd hike the uphills and run the downhills, and I wouldn't rest between reps. The purpose of this week was threefold: firstly to train my uphill hiking, secondly to train my downhill skills, and thirdly to learn to deal with having to climb hills when you don't want to anymore. At the end of the week I accumulated just over 10,400 feet, and still didn't hate hills. And now here I was, on my fourth big climb of the day, thoroughly enjoying both the process of climbing and my own ability to do it.

Around 2/3 of the way up the gradient eases and I manage to catch up with the runners who I'd earlier spotted way above me. I again take the opportunity to have a chat for a while, before deciding that this is definitely runnable and heading off. I hear some muttering behind me and the rest of the group follows before we reform at the foot of the final push to the summit. I'm 44km in and I reach the top a full 17 minutes quicker than last year and still feeling great, both physically and mentally.

I stop briefly to dib in and attempt to send Caren a text but for some reason there's no signal. The group has dispersed again so I'm back to running on my own. I crank up the Blood Bros once more and head off down the ridge. This is another great part of the course, with lots of ups and down and some faster flatter sections. Again it's bone dry this year and I'm moving confidently. I get passed by a couple who hurtle past me downhill and I wonder where on earth they came from and why they're moving so quickly at this stage of the race, before seeing them head off away from the race route and into the distance.

I finally manage to get a text through: 45km done - feeling great. At some point along the ridge I meet up with a guy called Andy and we have a good chat about different races and people we'd seen along the way. Eventually we get to Clough Head where we dib in and then head off towards the infamous descent, essentially a steep grassy cliff with a few muddy foot holes worn into it over time by people tackling the Bob Graham. I remembered Andy Cole mentioning in his report on last year's race that he gave up trying to walk down here and just sat down and slid. So I slide my way down the fine line between enough momentum and too much momentum and before long the slope has relented enough to be walkable. Andy's way ahead by now, so I settle into an easy pace and make my way across the final stretch before hitting the old railway line. From there it's good flat and fast running until Threlkeld where there's another aid station. I also catch up with Andy here, and after some more Coke and a bottle refill we head off along the old railway line toward Latrigg.

Along the way we pass a guy called Marcus who's been having a thoroughly bad day and looks miserable (I later find out he raced a 50k on the Isle of Man the day before). Andy and I talk about how we're both finding the flat sections to be the hardest because they tend dictate your pace - hit a flat section and you feel like you have to run it. It's a nice section of the course, flat and straight, surrounded by trees with lots of bridges. By the time we get to Brundholme I'm ready for some uphill again though, and we make short work of the last kilometre or so to the car park at the foot of Latrigg.

We dib in and grab something to drink: more Coke and a water/Coke/orange squash mix for one of my bottles. Marcus arrives soon after and sits down in The Chair. "That's him finished then" I say to Andy as we pick up our poles and head off on the 17km loop round the back of Skiddaw to Dash Falls, up the back end of Skiddaw to the summit, and down the tourist route all the way back to Latrigg. It's a nice runnable track with great views of Blencathra and the surrounding fells, and the sun is low so the light is fantastic. By now neither of us are running, instead just taking the opportunity to enjoy what's left of the day. My feet are sore from being wet all day and gravel grinding away at them, so I stop to take my shoes off and clean them out, not that it does much.

We pass the youth hostel at Skiddaw House and I look at my watch to see what distance we've covered so far. The numbers don't add up and I mention to Andy that I reckon this race is longer than 80km, maybe 83 (my Strava says it was 81.7km, so 51 miles). However long it is I'm looking forward to being done. My stomach is starting to feel a bit off, but I put it down to fatigue rather than nutrition as I'm still feeling good in other respects. It's not long before we hit Dash Falls when Andy says we're being stalked. I turn round and coming over the brow of the hill is Marcus, back from the dead. Eventually he catches up along with a couple of other guys we'd been running with at various points in the day. He still looks terrible and still feels terrible but he's battling on. We walk together for a while and then the three of them move on ahead. Andy and I are playing the slow and steady game by now, and sure enough by the time we get to Dash Falls we've caught them up again.

By now the sun is really low and we've probably got less than an hour of light left. The climb up the northern flanks of Skiddaw is really steep, grassy and muddy, so it's not easy going. Everyone's taking this last climb at their own pace and right from the get go Andy's off and away into the distance. I'm still climbing well but all I want is to finish inside 16 hours so I'm definitely not redlining it. About three quarters of the way up and the temperature has dropped significantly. My hands are getting numb, and knowing that I still have the long descent back to Keswick ahead of me I stop briefly to pull out my gloves and buff, at which point a guy called Paul catches up and we have a good chat about the Lakeland 100.

Andy and I both mentioned how we'd like to get to the top of Skiddaw while it was still light, and sure enough I arrive with just enough time to change the batteries in my headlamp before the last few rays of light disappear. Paul carries on alone as he's already getting hypothermic just from standing around for a few minutes, and with this in mind I put on my jacket for the descent.

The last time I was up here was March 2014, when my friend Dan and I decided to come and do reps up and down the tourist route as part of our Transvulcania training, so I knew the way down pretty well (OK, it's not exactly hard!) What this meant was that even though it was now dark and my field of vision was limited to the area illuminated by my headlamp I knew exactly where I was on the descent. Mentally that served to perk me up again, and within a few hundred metres I went from being ready to finish to being ready to go; such is the strange nature of ultra distance events.

As I hit the start of the flat section under Lower Man I can see a headlamp way off in the distance, so I decide to see if I can catch whoever it is. It's not easy to run down Skiddaw in the dark as the rocks reflect back all your light and appear bright white, removing a lot of your depth perception, but I could hike really hard. So I start powering myself down the slope with my poles and slowly feel myself reeling that light in. I catch up around the southern end of Lower Man, and it's Marcus again, fighting off nausea and trashed legs. I hand him a couple of of ginger chews and walk with him for a while to make sure he's OK to get off the mountain. We hit the switchbacks of Jenkin Hill and I make the decision to go ahead as I can see the light of the checkpoint off in the distance, and I break into a jog.

I finally get back down to Latrigg, turn down a cup of Coke but fill up a bottle with water even though I still have plenty of Coke/water/orange squash concoction left, then change my mind and down the Coke. I ask the guy manning the checkpoint how far to the finish. He says "about 5k" and points me in the right direction. I look at my watch and it says I have 30 minutes to get there if I'm to get under my 16 hours target. Hmm...it looks a lot further than 5k, and I've just done nearly 50 miles. I run hard all the way back to Keswick, in the dark down a stony track and finally onto the roads on the outskirts of the town, my feet killing me but my legs not even flinching. I run past the leisure centre and know that it's not far now, maybe a kilometre. My fastest kilometre of the race is the last kilometre, which takes me about 4 and a half minutes. It's also nowhere near 5k, more like 3. I could have walked that and still made 16 hours, but I'm pleased I was able to finish strong and run it in rather than grind out a death march. That's the dream scenario: start easy, finish hard.

Distance: 81.7km. Finishing time: 15:49:58.

As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, the main reason I wanted to write it, and also why it's so long, is I wanted to make sense of how things went in order to inform how I approach future races. What I think makes this race stand out for me is how well everything turned out. My kit choices were perfect for the conditions, in particular my footwear which left me with no blisters, no bruised feet, no missing toenails. Any soreness in my feet was down to them being damp all day and the presence of gravel in my shoes (I do wonder whether a change of socks at Wythburn, and maybe the use of gaiters, might have helped in this respect). My training was enjoyable, manageable, and if the outcome of the race (particularly those final few kilometres down from Latrigg) is the final test, then it was also effective. I also recovered very quickly with little to no residual soreness and fatigue lasting only 2-3 days. Perhaps most importantly, my mental strategy and general race day attitude meant that the race was a pleasure to run rather than a battle to complete.






22 May 2014

Beginnings: Transvulcania 2014 race report

“Begin at the beginning,” the King said gravely, “and go on till you come to the end. Then stop.” - Alice In Wonderland
When I started running in May 2012 I didn't have any particular aim in mind. I had no desire or need to lose weight, no particular interest in "getting fit" (fit for what? as Dan John reminds us - I was a weightlifter and you don't need to run to be fit for weightlifting), no race I'd decided it would be cool to run. I'd been to Thailand after a pretty shoddy performance at the British Masters Weightlifting Championships, and somehow I'd ended up reading Bryon Powell's "Relentless Forward Progress". I'd not run for quite a few years, but for whatever reason I just thought it would be good to run, just a little bit, because it kind of felt "right". I had no long term aims beyond running 10km (because that's the first distance I considered you actually have to train for) and "maybe doing the odd race". However, my training log for that period makes it quite clear: "No, I'm not going to start doing ultras."

To this day I'm not sure how I decided on reading that book - I look back at my training log for that period and there's no mention of any interest in running. What there is is a sense that I needed a change, a change in approach and maybe even a change in goals. I suspect it came about as part of that desire to just do something different for a while that often occurs after a period of intense focus on a single goal. I'd moved away from my weightlifting club and was now training alone, in my garage, with none of the peer support and heckling that makes putting weight overhead more enjoyable (despite being a solo sport on the competition platform, training for weightlifting works best in a team environment). I'd not been lifting well since the move, my training seemed to flit around between programs in attempt to relieve some of the boredom of these new solo sessions, and was finding myself trying to come up with ways of training that minimised the actual competition lifts. (Although I'd also read Dan John and Pavel's "Easy Strength", in retrospect I was training in almost entirely the opposite way to what they were suggesting; instead of spending most of my training time practicing my sport and the rest on preparing for it I was spending the vast majority of my training time getting stronger and very little on practicing the competition lifts). Eventually I came to the realisation that I wasn't really training for my sport at all any more. I was still doing the lifts, albeit intermittently, but I had no competitive plans nor any real desire to be back on the platform again.

Predictably, those first runs were horrendous stop-start affairs as I struggled to even manage 500m, but eventually I figured out a few different loops and set about making them feel more comfortable, and eventually making them longer. Before long I was going out for a run because I was actually enjoying it, and that original 10km target started to look a bit redundant. I started frequenting the kind of places on Facebook populated by people who think that "100 miles is not that far". And so the distances started to creep up: first the half marathon, because that's how runners do things - you move up a recognised race distance, in the same way that weightlifters and powerlifters like to only count sets of 1, 2, 3 and 5 (a new 4 rep max is apparently just a failed set of 5, or a triple that was too light) - and then towards the end of the year I started to think I might try my first race. "Hmm, no interest in a road marathon; how about a "short" ultra? That sounds like it might be kind of fun." So, in January 2013, 9 months after I started running, I signed up for the Ennerdale Trail Race, a 50km outing in the Lake District in October that year. A few months later I went out and did a 45km training run (an intended marathon plus another 3km tacked onto the end because my route was slightly longer than planned), so inadvertently popping my ultra cherry. Shortly after I, along with my friend Dan, made the wise decision to enter a second ultra before we'd even completed our first. Not only that, but we'd decided to enter a race 50% longer but with about 4.5 times as much climbing, because it looked good on the telly. That race was Transvulcania, a 73km mountain ultra on the island of La Palma with over 4500m of ascent. (When it came to my first race Ennerdale wasn't exactly the most enjoyable day of my life - race day norovirus coupled with camping-induced hip pain, poor weather, the awful South shore of the lake, and simple inexperience left me hobbling round with cramp for the last 33km, for a finishing time of just over 7 hours. That was fine though - it had long since become a training run, and a chance to learn from the mistakes that might finish me off in La Palma.)



Fast forward to May 2014 and I'm sat on a plane at Leeds Bradford airport about to begin the first leg of a 16.5 hour journey to La Palma via Tenerife. Eventually we arrived in the town of El Paso, just a few miles from the race finish, where we'd be staying for the next 10 days. From the door to the bungalow I could see a vast, long sweeping ridge, dotted with pine trees, gradually descending right to left before plummeting towards the sea at Tazacorte. From the pool I could see a big, black cone rising above the trees, an enticingly smooth path snaking its way down the hill's nose before disappearing into the forest below. These were my first glimpses of what lay ahead for us an just under a week's time. "It doesn't look that bad from here. Looks pretty runnable."

My training leading up to this race had started off well, then stuttered from February onwards when I started having to deal with niggle after niggle. Peroneal tendinitis in my left foot, medial knee pain in my right leg, then the beginnings of medial tibial stress syndrome in my left leg, and then finally, on my last long run before flying out, the beginnings of ITB syndrome. Not exactly the best build up to the race, but I'd been very aggressive in dealing with these issues, had made what I considered to be sensible adjustments to my training, and arriving on La Palma I was feeling about 95%. I'd also stepped up my non-physical training, and mentally I was feeling very good about the race. 5 weeks out Dan and I drove up to Keswick with the intention of doing 5 reps of Skiddaw to get some good climbing in our legs and as a confidence builder. Weather conditions on the day meant we pulled the plug after 3 reps and went off to trot around the awful South shore of Ennerdale water, but it felt pretty clear on the day that we were in good shape. The climbing was comfortable, the long descents didn't trash our quads, and we came away thinking that bigger climbs would mean more fun.

After consulting the map we decided that our race week would consist of a 2-3 hour run on Sunday along the high point of the course, a short but steep descent and ascent on Tuesday, and an easy forest run along the flattest section of the course on Wednesday followed by a trip to the race start to see what the terrain was like. Thursday we'd trot part way up the Vertical Kilometre course to watch the race, and Friday we'd spend constantly repositioning our race numbers. That way we'd have a pretty good idea of what to expect for most of the course - the only section we'd be going into somewhat blind would be the descent from the high point at Roque de los Muchachos to El Time, and Youtube had given us a reasonable glimpse of what to expect of that section. The rest of the time would be spent either in the pool or in the sea.

Recce 1: Roque de los Muchachos to Pico de la Cruz to Roque de los Muchachos

13.6km, 636m ascent. Steady outing, terrain seemed pretty runnable for the most part on the way out, slightly harder on the way back but nothing particularly difficult. Some nice smoothed out single track in places, but mostly pretty technical and rocky. Stiff climb back to the observatories should be fun on race day with 52km in my legs. Surprisingly few runners out on the ridge. Looking forward to this section a lot.



"Recce" 2: Tijarafe to Poris de Candelaria to Tijarafe

7.8km, 670m ascent, 670m descent. Not a true recce, but a chance to run something technically harder and steeper than the descent from El Time to Tazacorte that ends the big descent on race day. Short and steep descent to the smuggler's village, photo break, then hammer back up the way we came. Just over 3.5km each way, return trip was around 640m climbing in the space of 3km. Gnarly stuff, but felt great. It's certainly no Stone Cove or Aaron Slack (the benchmarks for awful climbs and descents).


 

Recce 3: El Pilar

6.8km, 304m ascent. Freezing cold dawn start, had to wear my windproof. I'll just freeze on race day. Nice snaking forest tracks interspersed with rock hard forest road. I hope they use the forest tracks on race day, but I seem to recall them using the road in the 2013 race video. Ran out to where the trees thin out and climbed up through some bushes for a good view of civilisation sprawled out below the ridge. Wild dogs around according to a sign hidden amongst the foliage. Spotted one on the drive back - looked like a greyhound crossed with a deer, and not very fearsome.




Recce 4: El Faro

Not so much a recce as a quick look at the start area and a run up the first few switchbacks to get an idea of the ground underfoot. Sand deeper than anticipated but would be runnable under normal conditions. On race day we're already prepared for the log jam and having to walk most of the first 5km. 



Race day

I didn't get the best night's sleep - a combination of pre-race excitement, howling winds outside, and the fact that for the first time since we arrived the night time temperature felt unusually warm. When I woke up at 2.30am I checked my phone for the current temperature and it said 20°C. That can't be right, I thought to myself, so I went outside to check. Yep! 20 degrees at 2.30am and blowing a gale: today's going to be a fun one! A quick coffee and flapjack breakfast and then our taxi arrived to take us to the start.

Around 4.30am we were dropped at the end of the road just a couple of hundred metres from the lighthouse. Lots of people crouched behind walls sheltering from the wind, and the temperature was much colder than back at the house. We chose to spend the next hour in the entrance of the nearby tourist office, keeping warm and availing of the toilet facilities in the hope of avoiding the need to drop a trailside curler (judging by the whiff just past the El Pilar checkpoint I suspect plenty of runners were not so wise).


By 5.40am we were waiting at the start, the atmosphere starting to build as more runners arrived (atmosphere then ruined by the DJs decision to play one of the worst Black Eyed Peas songs, no mean feat considering how awful all their songs are). The obligatory AC/DC, headlamps on, the countdown, and we're off. For about a minute. Round the lighthouse, across the car park, then 2100 people all tried to get up the same piece of metre wide trail at once and everything grinds to a halt. I knew this would happen, and there was no point getting annoyed about it. Just go with the flow, try not to fall over or get impaled by someone's poles, enjoy the support from the locals, and eventually things will open up.



There wasn't much running over this first section, but eventually I hit a dirt road where I could actually run for more than 10 seconds at a time. Shortly after it was back to more deep sand and switchbacks, before finally reaching the top of the hill just outside the town of Los Canarios, about 7km in, where the first aid station was located. For some reason I thought it would be a good idea to power up the hill into town like I was racing at Zegama or something, whilst others made the strange decision (in my eyes) to casually amble through the town on what is really the most runnable section of the course, only to immediately resume running the moment they were back on steep, unstable volcanic sand.


The next section of the race had more runnable sections as the sandy trail wound its way through pine trees, slowly gaining height, before eventually bringing us out onto a fantastic balcony-esque track where the still snow-capped mass of El Teide, Tenerife loomed on the horizon. Another aid station and a short ascent before we started dropping down towards the first major checkpoint of the day at El Pilar. The 500m of descent was really welcome at this stage as my hamstrings had started to cramp from the constant climbing, and I was really in need of some sustained running. I bombed down a big sandy slope accumulating half a volcano's worth of sand in my shoes in the process, and then it was a longish (~5km) semi-technical descent through the forest before finally appearing at the recreation area of El Pilar where there were crowds of people to spur on the ultra competitors and congratulate the half marathon runners whose race would finish here.



I was about 30 mins behind my anticipated schedule, but my timing chart for the day suggested I could be out for a whole 2 hours more than I thought. Oh well, it takes as long as it takes. I refilled my bottles and grabbed a meagre piece of watermelon (a piece of bad timing on my part as a fresh one was in the process of being carved up) and headed out towards the trail. The next few minutes involved me fumbling around on the floor attempting to empty my shoes of the sand which had shrunk them by a full size whilst simultaneously trying to avoid my hamstrings and adductors cramping up. This was not successful.

Unfortunately (but understandably) the next section of the course used the broad forest roads rather than the narrow, pine-covered single track, but this was one of the few opportunities to really run for an extended period. The temperature was getting hotter by now and I tried to stay on the shady side of the track in order to keep cool. I knew I should be running all of this section, but 4.5 hours of climbing had taken the spark out of my legs and I was already doing the run/walk/shuffle.

On paper this section of the course looks really flat, but in reality it's full of undulations that sap your strength and summits that never arrive. It is, however, a fantastic piece of terrain to run, full of narrow ledges and blind corners. Eventually I reached the aid station at El Reventón, refilled my bottles again, and prepared myself for the long drag up to the main ridge. In reality this section is less than 9km, but in my head it felt like I was moving for hours and not getting anywhere. I was starting to suffer in the heat too, feeling nauseous on the climbs and dizzy. My Clif Shot Bloks were now a chore to choke down and I was slowly running out of fluids. Every so often I'd sit down at the side of the trail thinking I was going to empty my stomach down into the abyss below, but nothing happened. No vomiting, no relief, no progress. Other runners would check I was OK and I'd give them the thumbs up (I really was OK, it's an ultra and they tend to make you feel a bit rough from time to time - it's all part of their charm). I'm pretty sure the same woman must have checked I was OK about 5 times during the course of the day as she passed me, I repassed her, and so on.

Conventional ultra wisdom says the best strategy for dealing with the distance is to run from aid station to aid station, breaking a race down into manageable chunks so as not to be intimidated by it. With Transvulcania you cannot do this. The route is always there in full view, and it's a view that really should be appreciated as a whole, not deconstructed into its component parts to make it easier to stomach. It's a big route: embrace it, enjoy the immensity. After Skiddaw I was excited about hitting some really big, sustained climbs, and now here I was. 50km of almost non-stop climbing. How incredible is that?



By the time I reached the aid station at Pico de la Nieve (2232m) I had no fluid left and was feeling pretty awful. I made the decision to spend 5 mins getting some fluid in, forcing down some calories, and letting a guy with a fire hose cool me down. I was now on the main ridge and it was only 3.5km to the next checkpoint, with superb views to either side and some tasty technical singletrack to deal with. From there it should really only be an hour or so to the summit and the 51km point. In the real world this section took me several hours as I battled nausea, dizziness, drowsiness, my increasingly sore feet, and a next level bonk. I ate a couple of slices of watermelon at Pico de la Cruz, the only food I could tolerate, refilled my bottles again, and set off on the final 7km stretch to the observatories at Roque de los Muchachos.


We'd already recced this section of the course on our first full day in La Palma, a fantastic twisting and undulating ridgeline trail full of hidden climbs and false summits to trick the mind and punish the legs. On Sunday I was looking forward to this section, but now I just wanted it over with. I was starting to fall asleep on the move, my legs were cramping again (proper leg crippling cramps that left me hobbling along like the Tin Man), and every climb brought a new wave of nausea. When I finally reached the checkpoint, after a tortuously slow final climb that must have looked like I was clambering up the Hillary Step, I'd been on the move for 11 hours and just wanted to lie down for 10 minutes and have a nap. I'd seen someone napping on the 2013 race video and thought it would help clear my head before the big 17.5km descent. Except there was nowhere to lie down unless you wanted to be pulled out of the race by the medics. The tents were crammed full of people, some eating actual food, some getting out of the heat, some making the decision whether or not to pull out. I sat down on a bench outside, rested my head on my arms, and almost instantly nodded off, the fatigue clearly getting to me. It was too warm outside so I went back into the tent, grabbed a cup of Coke and managed to find a spot to sit. I'd not been sat for more than a couple of minutes when suddenly Dan's stood in front of me - he'd been sat outside ready to go to the medical tent. We both agreed that this was tough going, and had this checkpoint not been such a pain to get to and from we might have pulled the plug. As it was we decided to stay there for another 30 minutes, get some fluids and calories in, and then see how we felt on the 10km down to Forestal El Time. If we still felt bad there it would be much less of a hassle to get back to Los Llanos if we decided to pull out.

On the way out we let a guy pour jugs of ice cold water over us, and I soaked the 3 buffs I had (they'd be dry in about 5 minutes, but the temporary relief was worth it). I stopped briefly at the roadside to remove the gravel from my shoes, stumbling around with cramp again and barely able to get my now swollen feet back into my shoes. Then the big descent began. Except, for some reason, this descent seems to spend an awful lot of time going up! Eventually I lost sight of Dan who was now feeling much better, and I carried on alone. Eventually I start losing some height and the trail gradually changes from the rocky technical stuff to dusty, gravel and pine covered forest tracks, tracks which my fuzzy head, battered feet and less than grippy S-Lab Sense were clearly not coping well with. On fresh legs and with a clear head these switchbacks through vineyards would be superb running, but 60km in it was all I could do to stay upright. At this point I started to seriously consider dropping when I got to the next aid station - I was dizzy and stumbling and had already fallen a few times. The prospect of making my way down the switchbacks at Tazacorte in this state didn't exactly fill me with excitement. I texted Dan to let him know what I was thinking and he said he was going to try and finish. Still the negative thoughts swirled round in my head. I passed another runner sat at the side of the trail and told him what I was thinking. He suggested I try and have a nap at the next aid station, or at least take my time there, as I had plenty of time to get to the finish.

Before the race Dan and I had decided that 14 hours would be a reasonable finishing time. And now here I was considering pulling out of the race no doubt massively influenced by my inevitable failure to meet that essentially arbitrary target time. That would be a stupid decision and I would regret it.

So I sat down at Forestal El Time, ate some watermelon, drank some more of the isotonic drink they'd been serving all day, and texted Dan to say there'd been a change of plan: I was going to finish, however long it took.

I grabbed another drink, filled my bottles, and got out of there. I tagged along with another couple of British guys before losing them as the descent got more technical, and then suddenly I found myself powering along at a good rate. Not running yet, but hiking fast and hard and feeling better both physically and mentally. A voice called out from behind me, telling me I was looking good all of a sudden. I turned round and it was Wayde, the guy who'd talked me into taking stock at El Time who I'd somehow passed and not noticed in my suddenly urgent march towards Tazacorte. We ran together for a while, yes ran, down rocky walled tracks towards the final descent. It was starting to get dark now so on went the headlamps, in theory more than practice in my case as I'd forgotten to change the batteries before the race and they were now on their last legs.

Eventually, after an inordinately long flat section during which we seriously thought we'd gone wrong somewhere, we finally started down the switchbacks that made up the first third of the Vertical Kilometre course a few days ago. In daylight this is superb technical running, but at night lit only by a flicker of torchlight it made for slow progress. Wayde would stop at the end of each switchback and shine his torch back along the path so I didn't stumble down the vertical cliff face or trip and smash my face on a sharp volcanic boulder. We could see and hear the final checkpoint far down below, and before long it was clear that they could see us too as a chorus of "Vamos! Vamos!" sailed up the cliff face. We hit the last switchback, turned the final corner and we were on the sea front, running towards the checkpoint as the aid station volunteers cheered loudly, spurring us on for the home stretch.

Onto the beach, under a bridge, and into a boulder filled dry river bed. It's slow progress but we're moving. 300m of climb left. 300m of climb in about 3km, at the end of a 73km race. It's a cruel twist, a final sting in the tail that weaves up though banana plantations along stupidly steep paths and roads. The plantation spits us out onto the road and a marshall stops the traffic and gestures up another hill. More zig zags. Wayde reminds me to drink as I've drunk about 300ml in the past 2 hours. Out the other side. More climbing. Wide, steep, long roads that only maniacs would drive, a house visible far above, never getting any closer. We're powering on though. We've lost the 3 or 4 others we went through the canyon with, our climbing through the plantations clearly stronger than theirs despite my sorry state. We reach the house, turn left, a marshall says something about how far to go but I'm not really paying attention, left again, up the hill, and suddenly we're on the final straight.

The road through Los Llanos that leads to the finish is a long one. Although only about a kilometre long it seems infinitely longer, like you're running the wrong way along an airport travelator, the finish line cruelly hidden away around a corner, a corner you can't see until you're stood on it. Wayde started to run harder and I gestured for him to go on ahead, in part because I knew I would finish and in part because I thought he deserved his own finish, at his own pace. I walked that last stretch at a leisurely pace, savouring the cheers, shouts and high fives from the locals who were still on the streets, watching from street corners, bars and bedroom windows and congratulating every runner like they'd won the race. I turned the penultimate corner and then picked up my pace to run the final 300m down the red carpet, still lined with supporters as raucous and rowdy as they'd been all day. Barriers were rattled and kids were leaning over to high five me. And then it was over.


If there's one thing about Transvulcania that everyone seems to talk about, it's the supporters. No matter where you are on the course, no matter what time of day, the chances are there'll be someone there so cheer you on. The winner had ran along that final kilometre some 10 and a half hours earlier than I had, and yet as far as they were concerned I was just as worthy of their applause, even though I was just some guy who'd somehow managed to scrape round just under the cutoff time. But that's the thing: I'd got round in 17 hours and 36 minutes. That's a stupid amount of time to be climbing up and down mountains. What sort of an idiot does that for fun? Me, apparently.

Yes, I said fun. It was the hardest thing I've ever done, but the course is superb and it was massively fulfilling: I'd do it again in a second. Only this time with poles, different shoes (Salomon S-Lab Sense were not the best choice in retrospect, but you have to try these things in order to find out what works), and without the temptation to DNF when things got tough. Begin at the beginning, and go on till you get to the end. Then stop.